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Before the adjustment of a door it should be remembered that repairs, as it is known, is a difficult and time-consuming process, what is more it requires a special succession of operations to be fulfilled. Time to adjust interior doors should be chosen depending on at what stage the repairs are. If the so called "European-style remodeling' with lots of alterations is done, then there is an opportunity to prepare an ideal doorway and make the entire surface ideally "smooth". If that is the case then the interior doors can be adjusted when the repairs are finished, because in that case there are more chances that the doors will not be damaged. But most of the repairs are done without leveling of walls and floors, that is why doors are adjusted right after sanitary and electrical works, but before field painting and tile paving. If this order is followed then there is a possibility to fix or hide some defects of the walls, which might appear after the doors are adjusted; it also makes it possible to use stopper or plaster to hide the brows of door frames.

Encastre of door furniture
Hinges, front key plate (it covers the place at the edge of the door where the lock mechanism is encastred) and its stroke plate must be encastred into the door leaf and door case "flushed with", in other words apace with the surface. There are some possible exceptions for the upper hinge, as the depth of its encastre depends on the back-lash and its size. What is more, all the mentioned furniture must "fit" tight into the prepared holes for it without any gaps (at the very outside, the gaps must not be more than 0,5-1 mm).

The results of this will show how professionally the interior doors were installed. If there are no any gaps, for example, between the hinge and the door-case, then everything was performed professionally. By the way this result can be achieved not only with the help of a special electrical instrument called milling cutter, but also with usual paring chisel, hammer and a very thin and sharp knife or lancet. First of all hinges are temporary fixed with screws to the edge of the door-case, about 20 cm from the upper and lower selvage of the door. The distance can be a little more or less, but it must be the same in all doors.

The hinge is encircled with a lancet; veneering and wood fibers are cut to the depth of 2-3 mm. After that the hinges are unscrewed and round the counter a hole of necessary size is made. In that way we get a hole which repeats all the details of the encastred detail. The hinge must fit the hole perfectly well, without any gaps. At the very outside, there can be gap of 0,3-0,5 mm from one side of the edge. But there are some disadvantages in this method - a sharp knife or lancet cut the wood well only lengthwise the fiber. If it has to be done crosscut they can cut only a thin lair of scale wood, as a result they make a deep scratch on the veneered surface. To go on with the work the edge of the paring chisel is put into the scratch and with short hacks on the handle a hole of 2-3 mm is made. This method of encastre can be very useful if it is applied to veneered doors and doors from solid wood. But it is not suitable for door-cases and doors made from medium density fiberboard, painted according to automobile technology, because this method allows cutting only a thin liar of paint. What is more, because of the hacks on the paring chisel the paint on the nearby surface starts peeling off that is why it is not possible to get a clear and even border. It is better to encastre the furniture into the door of the same construction with the help of the already mentioned "milling cutter". A number of problems can appear while circuiting the details, which have edges with rounded parts: the smaller the radius of the rounded parts the more difficult it is to perform the operation with the necessary level of accuracy. Therefore, for manual encastre it is better to use furniture with parts with lineal edges, and for mechanical encastre it is better to use furniture with parts with rounded edges.

Let's have a look at the next phase. After the details for hinges at the edge of the doorway are chosen, and the hinges are fixed into the holes with screws, each of the hinges is covered with the left part, and after that the stand of the door-case is fixed. The placement of hinges is marked on the stand, and the whole circle of work is repeated once again, though now all work is done for the stand. Pay attention to the fact that first of all the measurements should be taken from the stand itself and not from the whole door-case. That is why some doors manufactured in our country, and which are sold with a pieced together door-case, should better be taken to pieces: if it is maximum comfortable to carry out the work then it will guaranty high quality of the result. After the hinges are encastred the door panel is turned over, then the lock is encastred and the handles are fitted in. To make it more convenient and also to lower the risk of breaking the door panel during the work, the strike plate is encastred after the doors are adjusted. It is done in the following way: the lock catch is covered with any coloring but easily washable substance, for example with PVA glue, which is always available while the repairs are done. At first by turning the handle the lock catch is put away, the door is closed and the handle is dropped. At that moment the lock catch gets out and leaves a mark on the door-case. The mark makes it easier to cut a hole for the lock catch in the door-case. After that the strike plate is fixed to the door-case, then it is lined (with a knife or lancet) by the edge. After that the same succession of operations is done, the same as it was used for hinges.

Adjustment of interior doors
it is possible to talk about high quality of door-case adjustment only if one important rule is observed: if the leaf of the interior door stays immovable in any position. And that means that the door-case must be adjusted strictly vertically in two mutual perpendicular angles. The maximum possible deviation from the vertical line must not be more than 1-1,5 cm. otherwise the assembling defect will be seen visually. If the doors are adjusted in a flat with uneven walls, then a lot of time is spent not only on the encastre of furniture and fixing of the door-case, but also on choosing the most appropriate placement of the door-case in the doorway. What is more, it is absolutely necessary to take into account the batter of the floor, uneven surface and many other factors. In particular, some doors made in our country, which are manufactured with the help of a simplified technology have their leaf and door-case far from being rectangular. What is more, they can change their geometrical features during the exploitation. Very often after that the door-case moves and the door itself suddenly stops closing. More or less the mentioned problems can be solved by constructors, who at present mainly use two methods of adjustment: with the help of construction foam and the method when the door-case is adjusted with the help of open timbering with screws. These methods have their own advantages and disadvantages.

Doors of the "economy class" category (€ 80-100), most doors of Russian, Finnish and Spanish production are of this category, should be adjusted with the help of the second method and that would be the most optimal variant. Open timbering of a door-case. The idea of this method is the following: the door-case is assembled around the hanging door plate, the open timbering makes it possible to adjust the door-case in the door-way with pinpoint accuracy and make some of its drawbacks less noticeable.

Assembly of the door-case during adjustment
a part of the door-case with encastred hinges (stand) and 3-4 through holes with diameter of 5-6 mm is fixed to the wall with one or two screws. With the help of some bars the door stand is fixed vertically. After that the door plate is hung on the door leaf. Putting the measuring level to the edge of the door and checking its position all the time will make it easier to fix the door leaf vertically and firmly with screws and stands.

Due to the fact that in most cases the walls lean a little, some small retreats are possible when the door is adjusted but only until the door leaf stays immovable.

The maximum possible leaning is calculated experimentally and essentially with oiled hinges. Otherwise there can appear a situation when noticeable dragging of dry hinges will cause the door leaf staying immovable, after the oil is put the dragging is put out and the door starts closing inadvertently.

Having made sure that the stand is in the right place, it is taken away. The rest holes in the wall are made where the marks are and after that the door stand is put again and with the help of screws it is fixed for good. After that it is checked how the door closes and opens. If all the mentioned requirements are met then the second door stand is fixed at the same level with the first. It is fixed with screws in such a way that door leaf fits closely to the door-case, without any gaps, and there should be a similar backlash of about 3-4 mm between the edge of the leaf and door-case. After that the upper part of the door-case is fixed (crossbar) with the same backlash between it and the upper edge of the door.

As a result "back-lashes" in hinges and even the form of the door leaf are taken into account. In other words if necessary with the help of bars the stand can be curved in such a way that it would repeat the form of the door leaf. Besides the mentioned requirements there some important moments which should paid special attention to.

For example, very often there is a question about the distance between edge of the door leaf and the surface of the door-case. Somehow many think that the smaller the backlash the better and that is why people ask a craftsman to make minimal.

And every time we have to explain why we make the backlashes while adjusting the door a little bigger.

The method of using open timbering has several disadvantages, and the mail one is that there appear gaps (8-10 mm in diameter) under the screws (usually, after the repairs are done they are covered with some stopper matching the door-case in color or they are closed with some cap screws). Also a few problems can arise during the assembly of doors, as the door-case is delivered already assembled with stands cut to 45* and a crossbar (the same is done with some Spanish doors).

Very often the crossbar is a little short. To get at least the minimal backlash between the edge of the door leaf and the door-case (2-3 mm) a gap of 1-2 mm is left in one of the upper corners of the door-case; later it can be hidden with some stopper and will be almost unnoticeable.

Adjustment of doors with a "draft door-case"
The main part of problems, which appear when doors are adjusted, is the result of low quality of building and because of that - it is the result of poor state of building constructions. For instance, doorways very often have any form but not square, their splays and the wall do not form a straight angle. Because of that a lot of time is spent on checking whether each stand is placed vertically. The task can be noticeably simplified by using the "draft door-case"- that is a frame from a big wide board which is inbuilt into the doorway. If it is fixed strictly vertically then the process of adjustment of the whole door-case becomes a lot easier. Screw heads, which fix the door, can be hidden under the hinge, though after that it will be more difficult to regulate the door because each time you will have to take off the door leaf and the hinges themselves. But if the "draft door-case" is adjusted correctly then it will probably not be needed to regulate it at all, or at least it will come to minimum. Three or four screws for each stand can be enough to fix the door-case. If the door is hung on three hinges then there an opportunity to "hide" a screw under each of them. One of the hinges is 'hidden" in the opposite stand in its middle part - under the strike plate of the lock.

There is no space where to "hide" the remaining two important screws. If the door-case is wide enough (4-5 cm) then it is possible to "catch" the edge with four screws put obliquely and fix it to the door board of the draft door-case. Later the screw heads and the hole itself are covered with a plat band. Why can't it be done in concrete or brick without a "draft door-case"? Because it is extremely difficult to drill a hole under the necessary angle in these materials, and sometimes it is even impossible.

There is another variant when the door-case is fixed in the door way with the help of metallic angles or bases. In this case there are very limited possibilities for regulation, because the stands must be fixed from the first try or at least from the second try. This method of fixing is more time-consuming, because double work has to be done: at first to adjust and fix the "draft door-case", what is more with high degree of accuracy, and only after that the door-case itself is assembled. This method is often used when doors are adjusted into wide doorways, which make it possible to place there not only the door-case itself but also two boards no less than 2cm wide.

It would be sensible to use this method while doing the capital repairs, when the old walls are knocked down and the new ones are erected: knowing beforehand which doors will be adjusted makes it possible to put "draft door-cases" with the necessary size of the doorway during the building.

Sealing of joints while adjusting interior doors
As a rule the joints are filled with construction foam today. This operation takes only a few minutes, and after construction foam "dries up" (or in other words vulcanizes) the extra parts of it are cut with a knife. The method of open timbering when the joints are covered with construction foam has one important advantage: if for some reason a year later the door does not close then by taking off the plat band and cutting the bars and dried foam and with the help of the same screws it is possible to force apart the stands a little. Though it is convenient to use this material, it is important to remember about some negative moments. It is proved in practice that in some cases when the surface of the foam dries up the foam still remains a possibility to widen, what is more it can widen during a long period of time.

Very often it can lead to deformation of the door-case. The reasons for these unpleasant results can be very different: too much foam in the hole, not enough humidity for the foam vulcanization, and sometimes the use of materials of bad quality. High level of humidity in the air is very bad for dried foam which has open bug holes, that is why if it is used in sanitary conveniences then measures should be taken for vapor sealing of joints. And finally the foam is not able to stop deformation of gnarled door-cases. The most correct technique of sealing the joints is using mortar of cement. It creates something like a base stand between the wall and the door-case, and it prevents the door-case from deformation really good. But when the joint is filled with mortar of cement which has a lot of water, the door-case might move.

These consequences can excluded if from the inner side of the door-case a wide cello tape is put. By the way it is not necessary to fill all the empty places; it will be enough if the joint are filled for about 1-1,5 cm. While performing this operation you will definitely make the door dirty, but if the surface is painted or vanished then the marks can be washed off easily. Half-finished door which is not covered with paint or vanish is usually protected with a special "paint cello tape", the glue used in this cello tape if exploited for a short period of time does not leave marks after it is taken off. The material of the sealing can crash because of some physical influence, for instance adjustment of plat bands; to avoid it some PVA glue should be added into the matrix - 1-2 liters for 10 kg of dry mix; the surface of the wall cleaned from the old layer of paint and stopper should be padded with the glue.

The ideal variant of door adjustment is when the joint is reinforced with lath. But if the joints are 1-2 cm wide it will be enough to cover them with stopper and glue it with calico strip. Only after the walls are completely repaired (wallpaper or paint) plat bands are assembled (they are hammered or glued).

When the interior doors are adjusted the joints must not be filled with alabaster, which is often used by many builders. Alabaster swells out when it dries up and mo9ves the stands of the door-case.

Adjustment of doors in toilets and bathrooms
There is a number of peculiarities when door are adjusted and assembled in a lavatory. Modern panel house building is done in such a way that standard lavatories are already put in all flats. Though they are made at a plat, their walls can have a lean from the vertical line of about 5-7 cm. What is more, the surface of the same wall in plaster lavatories can have flections in different places. Taking into consideration the fact that the doors in lavatories are usually closed, the disadvantage that they close by themselves could put aside; and the doors could be adjusted in the same line with the wall, that means with the same angle which has the wall. But the kitchen door or the door to another room will be next to the lavatory door, and it will be adjusted at a straight angle. If it is adjusted according to all rules and assembled vertically, it will draw attention to the fact that the door to the lavatory is not at a straight angle and that the wall is not straight too. That means that the walls must be made straight, and it will lead too extra expenses ((€ 5-10/m2), the surface will become smaller and it is needed in the bathroom (somehow the walls always lean inside the room).

Adjustment of a door-case
the walls of such a lavatory are quite thin (4-5 cm), that is why while choosing the door it is necessary to choose the door-case of needed width. It is ideal when the door-case is no more than 1-1,5 cm wider than the wall (taking into account the width of the tile and the layer of matrix). In case of urgency, not to make the whole wall even the extra centimeters are cut off from the door-case. For instance this is needed when Finnish doors are assembled. It is very difficult to paint the place where the wood is cut and have the same quality, the is why the cut side is usually covered with a plat band. Nevertheless the line of cut is still noticeable. Similar operations when the door-case is adjusted while the door is assembled are possible if it is made of wood. If the veneered door-case is cut then flitch can detach straight away or some time later. Door-cases made of MDF will become rotten if extra centimeters are cut from it.

Widening of the doorway during the assembly of the door
If the question has to be answered, what to do, - widen the doorway or cut the door, it has to be taken into account that not every door can be cut and every doorway can widened. At first it has to be decided whether you want the upper line of all doors in the flat to be at the same level. In most cases it is a very important factor, though some clients do not care at all about doors placed at different levels. This part of clients does not want to risk their doors being spoilt, and as a rule they insist on the doorway being widened. If the walls of the lavatory are made of plaster then it is not difficult to perform (€5-10).