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It is impossible to imagine comfortable and functional housing without particular conditions of air - temperature, humidity and serenity , which influence not only our physiological state and as a result our health, but also physical and hygienic state of the building. There is no need in saying that people (especially children) who live a building with unfavorable humidity and temperature are more subject to illnesses; dirty air immediately makes a person feel unwell, causes sleep disorders and problems with metabolism.

Maintaining the needed air temperature is, probably, the most difficult thing while forming the microclimate in the building. Optimal air temperature in various rooms of the building differs from the point of view of person’s well-being, economic reasons and functions of the building. Temperature in the living room, study, dining room and nursery should be about 21-24 degrees; in bedroom, kitchen and toilet -20, bathroom - 24 degrees. It is commonly considered that optimal average temperature for a building should be 20 degrees, and the difference between the temperatures in different rooms, to avoid discomfort while going from one room into the other, should not be more than 3 degrees.

Chalk up
Air temperatures higher than the norm make a person less stable to catarrhal diseases Approximately such temperatures are used while projecting central heating systems in houses. Unfortunately, the saying “theory and practice differ” describes the real regime of work of heating devices in the conditions of thermal isolation of a particular room in the house or a flat. In most cases designers do not take into consideration the needed difference in heating of different rooms, depending on their placement according to the parts of the world or wind directions during cold seasons. For calculations they use average scales of heat loses through doors and windows of the building and average temperature of the coldest month. Definitely, they can not forecast personal sensitivity of people to temperatures while projecting impersonal housing.

Not only heating devises influence air temperature in the building during cold period of the year. Heat retention lagging of the building is also an important factor, in other words its protection from heat losses. Doors and windows, also walls, floor and ceiling (roof) cause the greatest heat losses. Particularly great heat losses are caused by frames of windows of low quality and improper adjustment of glass. That is why you should pay special attention to windows so that maintaining proper temperature in the building does not take a lot of time, nerves and money. The ways to winterize windows are well-known: putting wool between frames of the window and then sticking paper tape on it, putting special jointing material on the clasps. The first way, “ancient” one, is more practical but then the window does not look esthetic; the second is not so time-consuming but not always effective: jointing materials can cause defects of window frames, their locks, the glue destroys the paint and does not always sticks firmly the jointing material. The jointing materials themselves are not always stable enough to frost and humidity, that is why the structure of the material, necessary for proper sealing, is quickly ruined. This disadvantage is particularly common for rubber sealers, sometimes after only one cold and humid winter they fall to pieces.

Cannular sealers made of soft rubber have better characteristics, but they are less elastic and their clamp layer is bigger. They are more effective for sealing the small window because they are more stable to temperature changes and mechanical loading. Sealers with glue layer on them are easy to fix on the window frame, but they can disappoint during the first opening of the window when you see “noodles” on the window. Very often dry glues used for the glue layer are not durable enough, and after the second sticking they are practically useless. So to be on the safe side, it will make sense to use all-purpose adhesive before sticking the sealer.

Recommendations for gluing the sealer.

Heat losses and coming cold air are caused not only by joints in frames, but also by cracks formed because the glass does not fit the frame properly. Sealers will not help in this situation, special window lute is needed here (stopper). But it is also subject to the influence of temperature and humidity, especially in out joints. The simplest lute is chalk mixed with stand oil. It is not stable to cold and humidity; it can shrink because of high temperatures, that is why it should be painted after the cracks are sealed. Lutes and stoppers on glue base are more long-lasting and solid, but do not always have the needed color and are difficult to handle because they fasten quickly. What is more their expansion coefficient is bigger than the one for whiting putty, that is why low temperatures can cause crackles between the lute layer and the window, and destroying water gets into them.

Handy tips

If you want the lute to stay longer, you should apply it, if possible, when the temperature is rather low outside (early spring or late autumn) and, what is more important, on dry frames.

There is a more radical way to deal with heat losses through window frames - putting in the so called multiple glazing. Multiple glazing consists of frames with two (or more) inbuilt glasses, which are connected with a shoulder along the perimeter. The space between the glasses is filled with dry air, which prevents the glass from weeping and formation of condensate. Vacuum multiple glazing is a more modern way of preventing heat losses. There is no air between the glasses at all and that does not let heat exchange between outside and inside glasses. It should be mentioned though that multiple glazing like usual windows has joints on sash, which may need additional sealing.

Effectiveness of window sealing also depends on the adjusted of latches and bolts on the window frame. They should close with noticeable but not abnormal effort, because if the frame is pressed to the sash too hard it can cause obliquity and early wear of the sealer.

Entrance door is another “black hole” which lets out the heat and therefore lets in the cold. Good sealing of doors, especially those facing the staircase landing and in first floor flats, will insure not only smaller heat losses and also absence of draft. The standard method of sealing and winterizing of doors with special materials is usually not effective as it has many defects from the beginning. Putting moulds and fixing them with nails on the door will not give the needed result simply because it does not press the door to the door-case completely. If you decide to cover the door with insulant, then you should do it from the side to which it opens: inside for flats and outside for houses. The thing is that the leaf must not have defects at the joints with the door-case, and it is difficult to achieve while putting the material on the door-case. So one should mix up the meaning of winterizing and sealing of the door, though many try to combine these things.

No matter whether the door is winterized or not it is necessary to take measures and seal the joints between the door and the door-case. The process is similar to the sealing of window frames; the only difference is that the sealer is put on the case, and it should fit the size and match the color of the door. The last point is not obligatory as the sealer can be seen only when the door is open.

Work of latches and catches should be taken into consideration when choosing thickness of the sealer. The latches and catches of the door must press it closely to the door-case and at the same time there should not be any scratching on chases in the door-case, and the door itself must not move if the latches are locked.

The temperature in the room is also influenced by the material of walls, floor and ceiling (roof), and by the material and its quality of the outside and inside joinery.

It is well-known that thermal conductivity of wood is lower than of breaks and of cause of concrete. But a wooden house has a big disadvantage - it has more joints than houses made of breaks or concrete, and these joints need proper and time-consuming sealing. It should be mentioned that building materials can change depending on the humidity of the air. Thus it will make sense to check the joints of the floor and the ceiling with the walls, of walls with windows, so that no drafts appear. You can do it with the help of a lit up match or a narrow strip of paper.

There are less joints in houses made of breaks and concrete, and it is a lot easier to fix them with cement; but there is another problem in such houses - faster, than in wooden houses, cooling of the outside walls and ceilings in winter and warming in summer. We are able to forecast these negative effects while choosing the material for joinery of walls, floors and ceilings. The warmest floor covering is that made of wool, half woolen or synthetic carpeting. The warmest covers of walls are wooden panels, and expanded plastic can be used for the ceiling and its winterizing. A painted wall is colder than walls with wallpapers. Flat wallpaper is colder than textured ones, compact and thick wallpaper is warmer than thin and loose, wallpaper from natural paper is better than from synthetic. A carpet on the wall will make the room warmer and whitewash will make the room colder. If there are equal conditions of heat exchange and the rooms are equal in size, the one with less furniture will be colder, but it will quickly get warmer because the air circulation is more intensive.

Small window, which opens towards the wall close to the window, will make the room cold quicker because cold air intensively circulates along the wall. These and other factors, which may seem unimportant in comparison with heating or cooling of the air itself or heat-insulation, can influence the temperature in the room if combined.